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A countryside break from the high energy crowds of Japan’s cities is an absolute must to tack onto any trip to Japan. After days (or maybe weeks!) of wandering bustling urban neighborhoods and hopping from one train station to the next, a leisurely getaway is not just a well-deserved respite for travelers to Japan - it’s a slice of paradise which should be experienced at least once for all visitors, where Japanese hospitality unfolds in a vibrant tapestry of customs, cuisine, and lifestyles unique to whichever rural area one chooses to explore.
One of Japan’s Best Hot Spring Resorts, 2.5 Hours From Kyoto & Osaka
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Visitors exploring western Japan need look no further than Kinosaki Onsen for their obligatory countryside retreat. A wellness destination boasting seven tattoo-friendly hot springs, Kinosaki Onsen is a treasure trove of over 1,300 years of traditions and hospitality. Just a stone’s throw away from the hustle and bustle of Osaka and Kyoto, Kinosaki Onsen can easily be reached by one 2.5-hour train ride from either major city.
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Kinosaki Onsen prides itself on treating visitors as honorary members of the town, and this mindset is apparent in the town’s “one inn” motto - the streets of Kinosaki are the hallways, the train station is the entrance, and the seven hot springs are public bathhouses for everyone to enjoy together in harmony.
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The founder of this harmonious town was a monk named Dochi Shonin. Historical documents recall that he traveled the country to help the suffering and ill. In 717, his travels eventually brought him here, to Kinosaki Onsen. While asleep one night, he received a vision telling him to pray for 1,000 days to save the impoverished local people from further suffering. On the 1,000th day, hot spring water miraculously gushed from beneath the earth. This hot spring water soon became famous throughout the region and the country for its incredible healing powers.
In Kinosaki Onsen, Swap out a Welcome Wagon for a Welcome Tuk-Tuk!
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One of the best ways to get accustomed to your new life as a Kinosaki local is, of course, rubbing elbows with your fellow townspeople! Just across the street from Kinosaki Onsen Station is a small business called Tabizou. You’ll easily spot their shop by their distinct outdoor decorations - an impressive lineup of electric bikes and Tuk-Tuks. Tabizou’s friendly guides welcome newcomers to town everyday with unforgettable backyard tours of Kinosaki Onsen, and today, we’ll be their next Kinosaki newbies.
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We personally chose to kick back in a Tuk-Tuk with our guide driving, but if you prefer to take to the road on your own set of wheels, electric bikes are available too. Our first stop wasn’t a far one - in front of Kinosaki Onsen Station, we were given a quick history of the town, its hot spring heritage, and even some trivia on Kinosaki’s very own natural treasure - the Oriental White Stork.
This endangered species of bird went extinct in Japan due to heavy pesticide usage, and the last wild one was seen right here in this area in 1971. Thanks to local breeding efforts and stork-friendly farming practices, Japan’s stork population has been revived thanks to Kinosaki Onsen and the surrounding area. In fact, most of the current 400-strong population chose to stick around Kinosaki Onsen long after being released!
With a Tabizou-guided tour, there’s no need to worry about small details (bird-related in otherwise) flying over your head!
The first stretch of our Tuk Tuk ride was a corner of Kinosaki Onsen rarely visited by tourists
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Electric bikes are just as fun a way to get around the island! It wouldn’t be a stretch to say that many of the locals have never even stepped foot on this small island! Nakanoshima Island is a small farming settlement, teeming with enough rural whimsy to fill a book of fairytales. I was surprised no fairies popped their heads out of the grass to say hello!
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Our slow ride down the narrow roads gifted us magical views of the Maruyama River on one side and friendly waves from elderly vegetable farmers on the other. At the center of the island spans a rice field for planting "Stork-Friendly Rice," AKA rice farmed with little to no pesticides, perfect hunting grounds for the Oriental White Storks.
After doing the rounds on Nakanoshima Island, our guide drove us across the Maruyama River to another stork stomping ground, the Hachigoro Toshima Wetlands.
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Did you know that Oriental White Storks mate for life? The couple who have called these wetlands home for over a decade is proof enough! Through binoculars, we were able to catch the happy lovebirds frolicking through the grass and marsh, hunting for the day’s romantic moonlit dinner.
If you’re planning a visit during spring, you’ll have a high chance of seeing their newborn chicks in their nest! And don’t worry about missing out - they’ve had a track record of having babies every year since 2008!
Cafe&Bar 3rd
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Before a hike up to Kinosaki Onsen’s guardian Onsenji Temple we grabbed a bite to eat at Cafe&Bar 3rd. This chic little cafe packs a punch for the palate - it specializes in Tajima Beef, a local delicacy and some of the best beef in the world! Tajima Beef cattle are all born and bred in the area surrounding Kinosaki Onsen, and when this buttery, marbled gourmet luxury is exported to other parts of Japan and the world, it’s known by its more popular name, Kobe Beef. Cafe&Bar 3rd served up a delicious Tajima Beef hamburger steak accompanied with local rice, veggies, and potato salad - truly an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime meal.
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Kinosaki's Ancient Ritual
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Our next stop took us back into the hustle and bustle of town, past yukata-clad pedestrians until we reached the foot of Mount Daishi. Here we hopped off our Tuk Tuk and climbed 500 steps to Onsenji Temple, the guardian Buddhist temple of Kinosaki Onsen.（You can also take a cable car to the top if you’re not feeling up for hiking.）
The head monk was kind enough to give us a private tour of the temple grounds, regaling us with the rich history of the temple’s founding and Kinosaki Onsen’s origin story. It turns out that back in the day, all hot spring-goers first had to make the trek up Mount Daishi to Onsenji Temple to pray before being allowed entry into any of the bathhouses. While this is no longer a necessary custom, it makes the Kinosaki experience all the more special knowing we followed the tradition just like many of those before us.
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As we continued our tour around Kinosaki Onsen, our Tabizou guides showed us each of the seven hot springs dotting the town. The main draw of Kinosaki Onsen’s seven hot springs are their tattoo-friendly policies, a rarity for hot spring facilities. Many travellers have trouble finding a hot spring destination to tack onto their trip due to the stigma surrounding tattoos in Japan, but there’s no need to worry in Kinosaki Onsen - no tattoo is too big or too loud!
Our final stop on the tour was a small Buddhist temple tucked away in the back of town.
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This scenic retreat is Gokurakuji Temple, and one of the many charms that makes this place so special to Kinosaki Onsen is its importance within the community. Not only does the friendly temple monk offer zen meditation sessions and chats over a cup of tea to tourists, but his temple grounds also serve as a daycare for the local children.
As we wandered the tranquil stone garden and talked with our guide, the tinkling laughter of Kinosaki’s children, the future leaders of this wonderful town, reminded us exactly why Kinosaki Onsen is such a fantastic destination for international visitors - community and tourism thrive side by side, offering one of the most authentic journeys into the world of Japanese hospitality.
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Danielle Leveille
Junior Local Expert
Originally from Chicago in the USA. She currently works for Visit Kinosaki as a coordinator for international relations. A lover of Tajima beef and hidden sightseeing spots, she can be found either at one of her favorite restaurants or exploring a secret nook in town.
